Cremant de Loire

​Champagne and Crémant wines share a common thread – both are sparkling wines produced in France using the traditional method, a meticulous process that lends them their effervescence and character. However, there are distinct differences and unique qualities that set them apart.
 
Champagne holds a revered place in the world of sparkling wine, originating from the eponymous region in northeastern France. The appellation is fiercely protected, and only sparkling wines produced in the Champagne region can carry the prestigious name. This exclusivity is strictly regulated to ensure the highest quality standards and uphold the reputation of Champagne.
 
Crémant wines, on the other hand, are produced in various regions across France, each with its own unique characteristics and grape varieties. Some of the most well-known Crémant appellations include Crémant d'Alsace, Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant de Loire, and Crémant de Limoux. While they share the traditional method of production with Champagne, the grape varieties used can vary widely, with Crémant producers utilizing regional grapes to create their signature sparkling wines.
 
Both Champagne and Crémant wines undergo the traditional method, also known as méthode champenoise, which involves a primary fermentation followed by a secondary fermentation in the bottle. This process contributes to the development of fine bubbles, complex flavors, and delicate aromas that are hallmarks of these sparkling wines. However, there are some distinctions in the aging process and legal requirements, such as minimum aging periods on the lees, which differ between Champagne and Crémant.
 
Crémant de Loire is a sparkling wine produced in the Loire Valley, a vast 200 km region along the Loire River and its tributaries in France. The cool climate, moderated by the river and oceanic influences, creates ideal conditions for grapes with high acidity, low potential alcohol (9-11%), and just-ripe flavors. There are seven wine appellations in the Loire Valley that make sparkling wines, including Crémant de Loire, Saumur Mousseux, and Vouvray Mousseux.
 
The region's diverse range of soils, such as limestone-clay, tuff, flint-clay, sand, gravel with chalk in Touraine, and limestone in Anjou, provide excellent drainage and balanced water retention. Growers use less exposed sites where still wines would not ripen and generally prune to a higher crop load, with a maximum yield of 74 hl/ha. They must declare in July if vineyards are producing grapes for Crémant.
 
Fungal diseases and untimely rain at fruitset and harvest are threats in the region. Crémant rules require hand-harvesting, and lime-tolerant rootstock like Riparia Gloire is necessary due to the lime in the soil. Chenin Blanc dominates the Crémant de Loire production, with other grape varieties like Pineau d'Aunis, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grolleau Noir, Grolleau Gris, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir also used.
 
Whole bunch pressing according to Crémant rules ensures gentle and rapid pressing for high-quality, delicate juice that is low in solids and phenolics. Oak fermentation vessels are used for some top cuvées, while malolactic fermentation is optional. Blending for consistency is done prior to the second fermentation, and reserve wine, although not typical, can be used in premium bottlings.
 
Crémant de Loire undergoes the traditional method for the second fermentation, with some transfer method employed. A minimum of 9 months of lees aging in the bottle is required, but this can be extended to up to 2 years for a more autolytic flavor emphasis. Brut style dominates the bottling process, and 13% of Loire Valley wine is sparkling.
 
Crémant de Loire wines are 90% white, with medium intensity flavors of apple, citrus, and light autolytics. They can age for 2-3 years, developing honeyed aromas and maintaining high acidity. While most are Brut, Demi-Sec and Brut Nature are also produced. The Prestige de Loire designation, established in 2018, requires a minimum price of 10 euros in France and is made with Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. These wines must be Brut style, vintage-dated, and aged for at least 24 months on lees. Producers must commit to sustainable viticulture within five years.
 
There are 19 merchants, 10 cooperatives, and 400 producers in the region, with nine houses making 80% of the production. Exports account for 50% of sales, primarily to the USA, Germany, and the UK. The region's history is tied to Champagne houses like Bouvet-Ladubay, Gratien and Meyer, and Langlois-Chateau.
 
Saumur Mousseux and Vouvray Mousseux are two other sparkling wine appellations in the Loire Valley. Both have a 60/40 sparkling production based on Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc (for rosé wines in Saumur Mousseux), with higher cropping levels than still wines. They also allow for higher production volumes, early harvest, less disease pressure in the late season, and less effect of vintage variation. In Saumur Mousseux, unlike Crémant, 10% Sauvignon Blanc can be used in the blend. These appellations rely on specialists for sparkling wine production.
 
In summary, Crémant de Loire is a sparkling wine produced in the Loire Valley, primarily made from Chenin Blanc and featuring medium intensity flavors of apple, citrus, and light autolytics. The cool climate, diverse soils, and traditional method of production contribute to the wine's high acidity and just-ripe flavors. With a range of styles available, including Brut, Demi-Sec, and Brut Nature, Crémant de Loire offers a diverse and appealing selection of sparkling wines.

Some of the top Crémant de Loire producers include:

1. Domaine des Baumard
2. Langlois-Chateau
3. Bouvet-Ladubay
4. Gratien & Meyer
5. Domaine de la Paleine
6. Château de Brézé
7. Domaine Huet

Tasting note: 

Appearance: The wine presents a pale gold color with a consistent, fine bead of bubbles.

Nose: On the nose, the wine offers medium-plus intensity aromas of green apple, lemon zest, and ripe pear, complemented by subtle notes of toasted brioche, almond, and a hint of white flowers.

Palate: The palate is dry with medium-plus acidity and a medium body. The delicate mousse reveals flavors of crisp citrus fruits, green apple, and pear, accompanied by nuances of biscuit, toast, and a touch of almond. The wine has a medium-plus finish with a refreshing, mineral-driven aftertaste.

Conclusion: This Crémant de Loire from Domaine des Baumard is a very good example of Loire Valley sparkling wine, showcasing the region's expression and the added complexity derived from the traditional method. The medium-plus acidity, vibrant fruit flavors, and delicate autolytic notes are well integrated, offering a crisp, refreshing wine with excellent balance. The autolytic notes of toast, brioche, and almond contribute to both its complexity and elegance. The wine's precise balance and medium-plus finish are impressive, making it a notable sparkling wine. The medium-plus intensity on the nose and palate elevate this wine to outstanding, as the aromas express clarity throughout. The medium plus finish falls just short of the best examples, losing precision and taking on a slightly bitter almond note, thus keeping this wine from a higher quality rating.